Historical Context
Anthotypes were first described by Sir John Herschel in 1842, the same year he introduced the cyanotype. The process uses light-sensitive pigments extracted from plants—flowers, berries, leaves, and other botanical materials—to create images through photodegradation.
Process Overview
Unlike most photographic processes which darken with exposure, anthotypes work through fading—the plant pigments bleach where light strikes, leaving the shadowed areas (under the negative) coloured.
Basic Steps
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Emulsion preparation: Plant material crushed and strained to extract pigment; mixed with alcohol or water to create coating solution.
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Coating: Paper or fabric coated with emulsion and dried in subdued light.
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Exposure: Contact printed under strong UV light (sunlight) for extended periods—typically days to weeks.
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No fixing: The image is not fixed. It will continue to fade if exposed to light.
Plant Sources
Different plants yield different colours and varying degrees of light sensitivity:
Reds/Pinks
- Rose petals
- Red cabbage (pH-dependent)
- Beetroot
- Poppy petals
- Hibiscus
Purples/Blues
- Blueberries
- Elderberries
- Blackberries
- Violets
- Red cabbage (alkaline)
Yellows/Oranges
- Turmeric (very light-sensitive)
- Marigold petals
- Carrot juice
- Onion skins
- Daffodil petals
Greens
- Spinach (chlorophyll)
- Grass
- Nettle
Preparation Methods
Alcohol Extraction
Crush plant material and cover with isopropyl alcohol or vodka. Let sit for several hours or overnight. Strain through coffee filter or cheesecloth. Alcohol extractions often produce more vibrant initial colours.
Water Extraction
Crush plant material with distilled water. Heat gently (do not boil) to extract pigments. Cool and strain. Water extractions may be less saturated but work well for many materials.
Direct Application
Some practitioners crush berries or petals directly onto the paper surface, creating more textured, painterly effects.
Coating
- Use smooth, absorbent paper (watercolour paper works well)
- Coat evenly with foam brush or by floating paper on emulsion
- Dry completely in dark or subdued light
- Multiple coats may intensify colour
Exposure
Anthotypes require very long exposures—from several days to several weeks depending on:
- Plant species (turmeric is fastest; some greens are extremely slow)
- UV intensity (summer sun vs. winter)
- Latitude
- Desired contrast
Exposure Tips
- Use strong UV source (direct sunlight, UV lamps)
- Secure negative firmly to prevent shifting
- Protect edges from light to preserve maximum density
- Check progress periodically by lifting corner of negative
Image Permanence
Anthotypes are not permanent. The unfaded areas will continue to bleach with any light exposure. This is fundamental to the process—there is no fixer.
Preservation Options
- Store in complete darkness
- Display only briefly and rotate with archival copies
- Photograph or scan immediately after exposure
- Accept impermanence as part of the aesthetic
Some practitioners embrace the ephemeral nature, creating works intended to fade over time as part of their meaning.
Characteristics
- Soft, delicate tonal range
- Colour determined by plant source
- Inherently impermanent
- No chemicals required
- Meditative, slow process
- Each plant produces unique results
Variations
Chlorophyll Prints
Using grass or leaf extracts. Generally very slow but produce subtle green images.
Berry Prints
Blueberry, elderberry, and blackberry produce rich purple-blue tones and are relatively fast.
Turmeric Prints
Among the fastest anthotype materials—can produce images in hours to days rather than weeks.
Layered Anthotypes
Multiple plant extracts applied in layers for colour effects.
Safety
| Material | Hazard | Precautions |
|---|---|---|
| Plant extracts | Generally minimal | Some plants may cause skin irritation; wash hands |
| Alcohol | Flammable | Normal precautions |
Anthotypes are among the safest photographic processes, using only plant-based materials with no toxic chemicals.
Tips for Success
- Start with turmeric — it's fast and predictable, good for learning the process
- Keep a plant journal — record which plants work best in your region
- Use high-contrast negatives — the tonal range is limited
- Prepare fresh emulsions — plant extracts degrade over time
- Experiment widely — every plant behaves differently
Philosophical Note
Anthotypes connect photography to older traditions of plant-based dyes and natural pigments. The slow exposure times encourage patience and contemplation. The impermanence challenges our assumptions about what photographs should be—permanent records versus fleeting impressions.
Many contemporary practitioners are drawn to anthotypes precisely because they fade, creating work that exists fully only in the moment of completion.
Further Reading
Malin Fabbri, Anthotypes: Explore the Darkroom in Your Garden and Make Photographs Using Plants (CreateSpace, 2011) The only dedicated book on the anthotype process. 100 pages covering extraction, coating, exposure, and preservation. Essential reading for anyone interested in plant-based photography.
Malin Fabbri, Anthotype Emulsions series (2022–2024) Three volumes compiling collective research from World Anthotype Day. Volume 1 covers 60+ plants tested; Volume 2 features 139 artists; Volume 3 continues the research. An invaluable resource for expanding your plant palette.
Christopher James, The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes, 3rd Edition (Cengage Learning, 2015) The definitive comprehensive text on alternative processes, with coverage of anthotypes.
AlternativePhotography.com Extensive free articles on anthotypes, maintained by Malin Fabbri, author of the dedicated anthotype books.