Composition is the arrangement of visual elements within the frame. Good composition guides the viewer's eye, creates visual interest, and communicates your intent. Unlike exposure or focus, composition has no technically "correct" answer—but understanding principles helps you make deliberate choices.
This guide covers fundamental composition techniques and when to apply them.
The Rule of Thirds
The Principle
Divide the frame into nine equal parts using two horizontal and two vertical lines. Place important elements along these lines or at their intersections.
Why it works:
- Creates dynamic, asymmetrical balance
- Avoids static centre placement
- Provides natural resting points for the eye
- Matches how we naturally scan images
Applying Rule of Thirds
Horizon placement:
- Lower third: Emphasises sky (dramatic clouds, sunset)
- Upper third: Emphasises foreground (interesting ground, reflections)
- Centre horizon: Often static, but works for perfect reflections
Subject placement:
- Place eyes at upper third intersection in portraits
- Position moving subjects with space in the direction of movement
- Anchor vertical subjects (trees, buildings) to side thirds
When to Break It
Centre placement works for:
- Perfect symmetry (reflections, architecture)
- Direct confrontation (intense portraits)
- Isolation (single subject, minimal background)
- Square format (natural central strength)
Edge placement for:
- Tension and unease
- Suggesting something outside frame
- Extreme negative space effects
The rule of thirds is a starting point, not a law. Many powerful images place subjects dead centre or at extreme edges. Learn the rule, then learn when ignoring it serves your image better.
Leading Lines
What They Do
Lines within the image direct the viewer's eye through the frame, typically toward the main subject or into the scene's depth.
Types of Leading Lines
Converging lines:
- Roads, railway tracks, paths
- Rows of trees or posts
- Building edges
- Create strong depth and draw eye to vanishing point
Diagonal lines:
- More dynamic than horizontal or vertical
- Suggest movement or energy
- Can lead from corner to subject
Curved lines:
- S-curves are particularly pleasing
- Rivers, winding roads, shorelines
- Gentler guidance than straight lines
- Create flow through the image
Implied lines:
- Direction of gaze
- Pointing gestures
- Arrangement of objects
- Viewer's eye follows these automatically
Using Leading Lines Effectively
Identify potential lines in the scene.
Position yourself so lines lead toward your subject.
Consider where lines enter the frame (corners are powerful).
Ensure lines lead somewhere meaningful, not out of the frame.
Common mistake: Lines that lead the eye out of the image or to unimportant areas weaken composition.
Framing Within Frames
The Technique
Use elements within the scene to create a frame around your subject—windows, doorways, arches, branches, or any natural boundary.
Why Framing Works
Focus attention:
- Naturally directs eye to framed subject
- Reduces distracting surroundings
- Creates clear visual hierarchy
Add depth:
- Frame in foreground establishes layers
- Creates sense of looking through
- Adds three-dimensional quality
Provide context:
- Frame can tell part of the story
- Shows relationship between elements
- Adds environmental information
Finding Frames
Architectural:
- Doorways and windows
- Arches and tunnels
- Bridges and underpasses
- Building openings
Natural:
- Tree branches overhead
- Cave or rock openings
- Gaps in foliage
- Natural arches
Human-made:
- Mirrors
- Holes in fences
- Vehicle windows
- Any opening or aperture
Framing Considerations
Complete vs partial frames:
- Full frames surround the subject entirely
- Partial frames suggest enclosure
- Both can be effective
Sharp vs soft frames:
- Sharp frame draws attention to itself
- Soft/blurred frame (wide aperture) is subtler
- Choose based on frame's importance to the story
Symmetry and Patterns
Symmetry
Types:
- Reflective (mirror image across axis)
- Radial (elements radiate from centre)
- Approximate (near-symmetry, slight variations)
When to use:
- Architecture and design
- Reflections in water or glass
- Formal, structured subjects
- Creating calm, balanced feel
Breaking symmetry:
- Perfect symmetry can feel static
- One asymmetrical element adds interest
- "Almost symmetrical" creates tension
Patterns
Finding patterns:
- Repeating shapes or textures
- Rows and grids
- Natural patterns (leaves, waves, bark)
- Urban patterns (windows, tiles, crowds)
Using patterns:
- Fill frame for abstract effect
- Use pattern as background
- Break pattern with contrasting element
- Show pattern's extent for scale
A single element breaking a pattern becomes the focal point. A red apple among green ones, a person facing opposite in a crowd, an open window in a wall of closed ones—disruption creates the story.
Negative Space
Understanding Negative Space
Negative space is the empty or minimal area around your subject. It's not "nothing"—it's an active compositional element.
Why Negative Space Works
Emphasises subject:
- Isolation draws attention
- Subject has room to "breathe"
- Eliminates competing elements
Creates mood:
- Calm, contemplative feeling
- Sense of solitude or vastness
- Minimalist aesthetic
Implies scale:
- Small subject in large space = vulnerability, insignificance
- Suggests environment's dominance
Using Negative Space
Proportion:
- More negative space = stronger effect
- Subject might occupy only 10-20% of frame
- Extreme ratios create dramatic impact
Tone and texture:
- Plain backgrounds work best
- Sky, water, walls, fog
- Consistent tone prevents distraction
Subject placement:
- Off-centre placement with directional space
- Leave room for implied movement or gaze
- Avoid cramping subject against frame edge
Foreground Interest
Adding Depth with Foreground
Including foreground elements creates layers that draw the viewer into the scene, particularly important in landscape photography.
Effective Foreground Elements
Natural:
- Rocks and boulders
- Flowers and grasses
- Water ripples
- Fallen leaves or branches
Human-made:
- Fences and gates
- Paths and roads
- Boats and equipment
- Architectural elements
Foreground Technique
Position low:
- Getting camera close to ground emphasises foreground
- Wide-angle lenses exaggerate perspective
- Creates dramatic near-far relationship
Ensure sharpness:
- Small apertures for front-to-back sharpness
- Hyperfocal focusing maximises depth of field
- Or deliberately blur foreground for different effect
Connect to background:
- Foreground should relate to main subject
- Creates visual journey through image
- Avoid random foreground that doesn't support composition
Depth and Layers
Creating Three-Dimensional Images
Photographs are two-dimensional, but composition can suggest depth through careful layering.
Building Layers
Foreground:
- Closest elements
- Often at bottom of frame
- Provides entry point
Middle ground:
- Where main subject often sits
- Primary area of interest
- Bridge between front and back
Background:
- Furthest elements
- Provides context and environment
- Should support, not distract
Depth Techniques
Overlapping elements:
- Objects partially covering others
- Clear spatial relationships
- Simplest depth cue
Size relationships:
- Smaller = further (for same-sized objects)
- Known objects provide scale reference
- Perspective diminution
Atmospheric perspective:
- Distant objects appear lighter/hazier
- Colour desaturation with distance
- Common in landscape photography
Focus gradation:
- Sharp subject, soft background (or vice versa)
- Depth of field as depth indicator
- Selective focus guides attention
Balance and Visual Weight
Understanding Visual Weight
Different elements have different "weights" in a composition—some draw the eye more strongly than others.
What Carries Visual Weight
High visual weight:
- Bright areas (especially against dark)
- High contrast
- Human faces and eyes
- Text or recognisable symbols
- Warm colours (reds, oranges)
- Sharp/focused areas
- Complex textures
- Unusual or unexpected elements
Low visual weight:
- Dark areas
- Low contrast
- Empty space
- Soft/blurred areas
- Cool colours (blues, greens)
- Simple textures
Balancing the Frame
Symmetrical balance:
- Equal weight on both sides
- Stable, formal, restful
- Can feel static
Asymmetrical balance:
- Unequal elements balanced against each other
- More dynamic and interesting
- Requires more careful arrangement
Example: A large dark area can balance a small bright subject. A single figure can balance a distant mountain. The eye accepts these as balanced even though the elements differ.
Intentional Imbalance
Deliberately unbalanced compositions create tension and unease—useful for unsettling subjects or dynamic energy.
Aspect Ratio Considerations
Common Film Formats
| Format | Aspect Ratio | Character |
|---|---|---|
| 35mm | 2:3 | Versatile, slight rectangle |
| 6×4.5 | 4:3 | Similar to classic TV/monitor |
| 6×6 | 1:1 | Square, natural centre strength |
| 6×7 | 5:4 | Near square, traditional print |
| 6×9 | 2:3 | Same as 35mm, larger |
| 6×17 | ~3:1 | Panoramic |
Composing for Your Format
35mm (2:3):
- Natural for horizontal landscapes
- Works well with rule of thirds
- Portrait orientation good for figures
- Most versatile aspect ratio
Square (6×6):
- Strong centre composition
- Symmetry works naturally
- Diagonals become important
- Less obvious "up" or "across"
- Can crop later to any ratio
6×7 and 6×4.5:
- Near-square behaviour
- Slightly more flexible than true square
- Natural match to traditional print sizes
Panoramic:
- Requires horizontal sweep of interest
- Leading lines particularly important
- Consider left-to-right reading flow
- Can feel like a window view
Composing for Cropping
From square:
- Many photographers compose 6×6 with cropping in mind
- Compose with "safe area" for various ratios
- Or embrace the square deliberately
Enlarger cropping:
- Darkroom printing allows cropping
- Compose with options in mind
- But best results from using full frame
Spend time with one format before switching. Understanding how your specific aspect ratio affects composition takes practice. Master one before adding variables.
Format-Specific Composition
35mm Considerations
Film's limited frame count teaches intentionality. With 36 (or 12, or 10) exposures, you learn to wait for the decisive moment rather than spraying and hoping.
Advantages:
- Easy to rotate for portrait/landscape
- Quick handling encourages experimentation
- Many frames per roll reduces preciousness
Common approaches:
- Horizontal for landscapes, environmental portraits
- Vertical for single figures, architecture
- Quick framing for decisive moments
Medium Format Considerations
6×6 square:
- Compose definitively or for cropping
- Diagonals gain importance
- Waist-level finder encourages different angles
- No need to rotate camera
6×7:
- Similar to enlargement paper ratios
- More considered, slower shooting
- Excellent for portraits (vertical format)
- Natural for landscapes (horizontal)
6×4.5:
- Most frames per roll in medium format
- Portrait-oriented by default
- Good compromise of quality and quantity
Large Format
4×5:
- Near-square ratio
- Ground glass composing is deliberate
- Movements allow perspective and focus control
- Every composition is considered
8×10:
- Similar to 4×5 compositionally
- Contact printing means full-frame is essential
- Ultimate deliberation
Practical Exercises
Exercise 1: Single Subject, Multiple Compositions
Find one simple subject (a tree, building, person).
Make at least six different compositions without moving the subject.
Vary: distance, angle, orientation, what's included/excluded.
Review results—which works best and why?
Exercise 2: Leading Lines Hunt
Walk through an area specifically looking for lines.
For each line found, determine where it leads.
Position to make the line lead to something meaningful.
Try different angles—how does line direction change?
Exercise 3: Negative Space Study
Find a simple subject against a plain background.
Make the subject progressively smaller in frame.
Note how the feeling changes with more negative space.
Determine the threshold where subject loses importance.
Exercise 4: Layer Building
Find a landscape or urban scene with distinct depth.
Identify potential foreground, middle, and background elements.
Position to include clear layers.
Try with different apertures—how does depth of field affect the layering?
Common Composition Mistakes
Centred Everything
Problem: Every subject dead centre creates monotonous images.
Solution: Use rule of thirds as default; centre deliberately when it serves the image.
Cutting at Joints
Problem: Cropping people at knees, elbows, wrists looks awkward.
Solution: Crop at mid-thigh, mid-forearm, or include the full limb.
Mergers
Problem: Background elements appear to grow from subject (tree from head, pole from shoulder).
Solution: Check background carefully; move camera position slightly.
Cluttered Frames
Problem: Too many competing elements with no clear subject.
Solution: Simplify. Move closer, change angle, use shallow depth of field.
Tilted Horizons
Problem: Unintentional horizon tilt looks careless.
Solution: Use camera grid lines, check level before shooting, correct in post if needed.
Subject Cramped
Problem: Subject pressed against frame edge with no breathing room.
Solution: Leave space in the direction of gaze or movement.
Summary
Rule of thirds:
- Powerful default for placement
- Place key elements on thirds or intersections
- Break deliberately when centre or edge serves better
Leading lines:
- Direct the eye through the frame
- Should lead to something meaningful
- Diagonals and curves are dynamic
Framing:
- Use scene elements to create frames within frames
- Focuses attention and adds depth
- Can be complete or partial
Symmetry and patterns:
- Create order and visual interest
- Breaking symmetry/pattern creates focal point
- Square format strengthens symmetrical composition
Negative space:
- Empty space is active compositional element
- Creates isolation, mood, scale
- Subject doesn't need to fill the frame
Foreground interest:
- Adds depth and entry point
- Particularly important for landscapes
- Should relate to main subject
Depth and layers:
- Build images with foreground, middle, background
- Use overlapping, size, atmosphere, focus
- Creates three-dimensional feeling
Balance:
- Visual weight creates compositional equilibrium
- Asymmetrical balance is dynamic
- Intentional imbalance creates tension
Aspect ratio:
- Different formats suit different subjects
- Learn one format deeply
- Compose for your specific ratio
Composition is both intuitive and learned. Study images you admire—analyse why they work. Shoot deliberately, review critically, and over time, strong composition becomes instinctive.
For more on using composition to convey meaning and emotion, see our visual storytelling guide.