Toning transforms the silver image into more stable compounds while shifting the print's colour. A selenium-toned print gains archival permanence and subtle colour; a sepia-toned print becomes warm brown. Toning bridges chemistry and aesthetics.
This guide covers the major toning processes, their effects, and practical working methods.
Active time: 30-60 minutes per print (varies by toning method)
This guide assumes you've completed:
- Work in a well-ventilated area—essential for all toning processes
- Always wear gloves—selenium is absorbed through skin and is toxic
- Never mix toners with acids—releases toxic gases
- Sepia sulfide releases hydrogen sulfide gas (toxic)—use outdoors or with exhaust ventilation
- Keep chemicals away from children and pets
- Dispose of toners as chemical/hazardous waste
What Is Toning?
The Chemistry
A black and white print consists of metallic silver suspended in gelatin. Toning replaces some or all of this silver with different compounds:
- Selenium toning: Converts silver to silver selenide
- Gold toning: Deposits metallic gold over the silver
- Sepia/sulfide toning: Converts silver to silver sulfide
Each compound has different colour, stability, and permanence characteristics.
Why Tone Prints?
Archival protection: Silver is vulnerable to environmental pollutants, particularly sulfur compounds in the air. Toned prints resist deterioration better than untoned prints.
Colour shifts: Toning changes the image colour—from cool purple-black (selenium) to warm brown (sepia) to blue-black (gold). These subtle shifts dramatically affect mood and perception.
Enhanced tonal richness: Many photographers find toned prints have greater apparent depth, especially in the shadows.
Toning and Paper
Not all papers respond equally to toning:
- Warm-tone papers show more dramatic colour shifts with most toners
- Neutral papers shift more subtly
- RC papers generally don't tone well—the resin prevents toner penetration
- Chlorobromide papers (like Ilford MG FB) tone beautifully
- Pure bromide papers show less colour change but still gain archival benefit
Always test toning on spare prints before committing important work. Paper response varies significantly between brands and batches.
Getting Started: Commercial Toners
For beginners, start with ready-made toners rather than mixing from scratch:
Selenium toner (Kodak Rapid Selenium, Fotospeed ST20): Subtle colour shift, archival benefits. Start at 1+19 dilution for archival protection with minimal colour change, or 1+9 for more visible effect.
Sepia toner (Fotospeed Sepia, Ilford Harman): Classic warm brown. Comes in two-part kits with bleach and toner—follow the instructions included.
Gold toner (Tetenal Gold Toner, Fotospeed GT20): Blue-black shift with ultimate archival protection. Expensive but straightforward to use.
If you've never toned before, start with selenium toning at 1+19 dilution. It's the most forgiving—you can tone for 5-15 minutes with gradual results, and it adds archival protection even if the colour shift is barely visible. You can always try stronger dilutions or other toners once you're comfortable with the process.
Selenium Toning
Selenium toning is the most common archival treatment. It provides protection against environmental deterioration while producing a subtle colour shift.
Effects of Selenium
Colour shift: Neutral-to-cool, sometimes with a slight purple cast. The shift is subtle on most papers—visible but not dramatic.
Tonal change: Shadows deepen slightly; overall density can increase. Some prints appear to gain contrast.
Archival benefit: Excellent. Silver selenide is extremely stable against atmospheric sulfur compounds.
Dilutions and Effects
Selenium toner is typically sold as a concentrate (e.g., Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner, Fotospeed ST20).
| Dilution | Effect | Use |
|---|---|---|
| 1+3 (strong) | Visible colour shift | Creative colour change |
| 1+9 (medium) | Moderate colour shift | Balance of protection and colour |
| 1+19 (weak) | Minimal colour shift | Archival protection only |
Higher concentrations tone faster and produce more colour change. Lower concentrations work slowly with less visible effect.
Selenium Toning Procedure
Process print archivally. Two-bath fixing and proper washing are essential—residual fixer causes uneven toning.
Prepare toner. Mix selenium concentrate with water at chosen dilution. Some photographers add washing aid to the toner bath (same concentration as normal use).
Pre-wet print. If print is dry, soak in water for 5-10 minutes to ensure even penetration.
Tone. Place print in toner and agitate gently. Watch for colour change.
Monitor progress. Check print in good light every minute. Compare to an untoned reference if available.
Remove at desired point. Toning continues after removal, so pull slightly before target colour.
Wash. Wash thoroughly (10-20 minutes) to remove toner from the paper base.
Timing
At 1+9 dilution, 20°C:
- Visible change: 3-8 minutes (varies with paper)
- Strong shift: 10-15 minutes
- Maximum effect: 15-20+ minutes
Temperature affects speed: Warmer toner works faster. Cold toner works slowly but may give smoother results.
Reading Selenium Tone
The colour shift can be subtle. Tips for evaluation:
- View prints in consistent, neutral lighting
- Compare toned to untoned prints side-by-side
- Check shadows—they show change first
- Wet prints appear different from dry prints; final evaluation must wait until dry
Papers That Respond Well
- Ilford Multigrade FB Classic: Good response, subtle cooling
- Ilford Warmtone FB: More dramatic shift toward purple
- Fomabrom: Strong response
- Oriental Seagull: Beautiful response (if available)
Selenium toner is poisonous. Work in a well-ventilated area, wear gloves, and never let toner contact skin or eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after any session. Dispose of used toner as hazardous waste.
Gold Toning
Gold toning produces a blue-black colour shift and provides the ultimate in archival protection. Metallic gold is essentially permanent.
Effects of Gold
Colour shift: Cool blue-black. More obvious than selenium on most papers.
Tonal change: Can slightly reduce overall density. Highlights may shift more than shadows.
Archival benefit: Exceptional. Gold is chemically inert—gold-toned prints should last indefinitely in proper storage.
Gold Toner Formulas
Gold Protective Solution (GP-1): A traditional formula that deposits gold without bleaching:
- Water (at 50°C): 750ml
- Gold chloride (1% solution): 10ml
- Sodium thiocyanate: 10g
- Water to make: 1 litre
Mix in order given. Use at 20°C. Tone for 10-20 minutes.
Commercial gold toners: Available from Tetenal, Fotospeed, and others. More convenient but expensive.
Gold Toning Procedure
Process and wash print archivally. Gold toning is typically done as the final step before drying.
Prepare toner. Commercial toner per instructions, or GP-1 formula fresh.
Tone. Place wet print in gold toner. Agitate gently.
Monitor. Colour shift is visible—watch for the blue-black tone.
Remove and wash. Wash for 10-15 minutes.
Gold Toner Capacity
Gold toner exhausts as the gold is deposited on prints. One litre typically handles 10-15 8×10 prints before noticeable weakening.
Cost consideration: Gold chloride is expensive. Gold toning is typically reserved for exhibition prints where maximum permanence justifies the cost.
Selenium + Gold Combination
For ultimate archival permanence:
- Selenium tone first (1+19 or 1+9, to desired level)
- Wash
- Gold tone (to desired blue-black shift)
- Final wash
This "belt and suspenders" approach provides maximum protection.
Sepia Toning
Sepia toning converts the silver image to silver sulfide, producing warm brown tones reminiscent of 19th-century photographs.
The Two-Step Process
Unlike selenium and gold (which work directly), sepia toning is typically a bleach-and-redevelop process:
- Bleach: Potassium ferricyanide converts metallic silver to silver ferrocyanide (the image fades to pale yellow/tan)
- Redevelop: Sodium sulfide converts the silver ferrocyanide to brown silver sulfide (the image returns as warm brown)
Sepia Toning Procedure
Bleach solution:
- Potassium ferricyanide: 50g
- Potassium bromide: 50g
- Water to make: 1 litre
Use at 1+9 dilution for controlled bleaching.
Sulfide redeveloper:
- Sodium sulfide: 50g
- Water to make: 1 litre
Use at 1+9 dilution. Work in well-ventilated area—releases hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell).
Bleach the print until the image nearly disappears. This may take 1-5 minutes depending on dilution and print density.
Rinse thoroughly in running water (2-3 minutes) to remove bleach.
Redevelop in sulfide solution. The image returns rapidly (30-60 seconds) in warm brown tones.
Wash thoroughly (15-20 minutes). Residual sulfide causes eventual staining.
Controlling Sepia Tone
Full bleach: Complete bleaching produces maximum brown (lighter, warmer).
Partial bleach: Stop bleaching before the image fully disappears for darker, less warm tones with more retained silver.
Variable sepia: Commercial kits (like Fotospeed Variable Sepia) offer multiple redeveloper options for different brown hues.
Thiourea vs Sodium Sulfide
Sodium sulfide:
- Traditional, effective
- Very strong odor (hydrogen sulfide)
- Requires excellent ventilation
Thiourea:
- Less odorous
- Slightly different colour (can be warmer)
- Some formulas are odourless
Commercial sepia kits often use thiourea for studio practicality.
Sodium sulfide releases hydrogen sulfide gas, which is toxic at high concentrations and has an overpowering smell at any concentration. Work outdoors or with strong exhaust ventilation. Thiourea-based toners are safer for enclosed spaces.
Split Toning
Split toning combines two toners for dual-tone effects—typically different colours in highlights vs shadows.
Partial Sepia Split
The most common split tone:
Partially bleach in sepia bleach until only highlights are affected (shadows retain silver).
Rinse and redevelop in sulfide. Highlights become brown; shadows remain black.
Optionally selenium tone for cool shadows against warm highlights.
Selenium-Sepia Split
An elegant combination:
Selenium tone first (light treatment). Shadows gain purple-black tone.
Partially sepia tone. Only the midtones and highlights (less-toned areas) convert to brown.
Result: Cool purple-black shadows, warm brown highlights, with smooth transitions.
Creative Possibilities
Split toning opens many combinations:
- Sepia highlights, selenium shadows
- Blue-toned highlights (gold or iron), brown shadows
- Variable intensity across the image
These effects require testing and practice but create distinctive, sophisticated prints.
Other Toning Methods
Copper Toning
Produces red-brown to orange tones. Less common, requires careful handling (copper salts are toxic).
Iron Blue Toning
Creates blue images (think cyanotype colour). The print is bleached, then redeveloped in iron/ferricyanide compounds.
Tea and Coffee Toning
Non-chemical toning using tannins:
- Make strong tea or coffee
- Soak print for extended periods (hours)
- Wash and dry
Result: Subtle warm staining, not true toning. Not archival—the organic compounds may degrade over time. Fun for effects, not for permanence.
Dye Toning
Some toners add dyes to the image. These can produce vivid colours but are not archival—dyes fade.
Toning Workflow Considerations
When to Tone
In the processing sequence: Tone after fixing, after washing aid (if used), and before final wash.
For dry prints: Re-wet prints for 10-15 minutes before toning. Dry prints that aren't fully softened may tone unevenly.
Print Preparation
For even toning:
- Process archivally (two-bath fix, thorough washing)
- Remove all residual fixer (causes uneven toning)
- Ensure prints are fully wet before toning
Testing
Always test first:
- Make extra prints for toning tests
- Test each paper/toner combination—responses vary
- Keep reference prints (toned and untoned) for comparison
Record Keeping
Note your toning parameters:
- Dilution
- Time
- Temperature
- Paper type
- Observed effect
This allows you to reproduce results.
Safety Summary
| Toner | Hazard | Precautions |
|---|---|---|
| Selenium | Toxic, absorbed through skin | Gloves, ventilation, hazardous waste disposal |
| Gold | Gold chloride is corrosive | Gloves, eye protection |
| Sepia bleach | Potassium ferricyanide is toxic if ingested | Gloves, don't contaminate |
| Sepia sulfide | Releases H₂S gas (toxic, flammable) | Excellent ventilation essential |
| Thiourea | Mild hazard | Standard precautions |
General rules:
- Always wear gloves when toning
- Work in ventilated spaces
- Never mix toners with acids (releases toxic gases)
- Dispose of toners as chemical waste
- Label all containers clearly
Selenium is a cumulative poison. Even brief skin contact should be avoided. If toner contacts skin, wash immediately with soap and water. For eye contact, flush with water and seek medical attention.
Equipment Needed
- Toning trays
Dedicated trays for each toner. Don't use toning trays for other chemistry.
- Rubber or nitrile gloves
Protect skin from all toners, especially selenium.
- Print tongs
Dedicated tongs for toning.
- Ventilation
Window, fan, or fume hood—especially for sepia.
- Timer
Track toning time accurately.
- Reference prints
Untoned comparison prints for judging tone.
- Good lighting
Neutral daylight or daylight-balanced light for evaluating colour.
Summary
- Toning converts silver to more stable compounds while shifting colour
- Selenium provides archival protection with subtle cooling; toxic—requires gloves and ventilation
- Gold offers ultimate permanence with blue-black shift; expensive
- Sepia creates warm brown tones via bleach-and-redevelop; strong odour requires ventilation
- Split toning combines methods for dual-tone effects
- Always test paper/toner combinations before important work
- Process prints archivally before toning for best results
- Handle all toners with appropriate safety precautions
Toning adds the final dimension to a fine print—the subtle shift in colour that transforms a good photograph into something distinctive. Whether for archival protection or aesthetic effect, toning is a skill that repays careful practice.