Free course · 7 steps · Several sessions with a willing model
Studio portrait lighting on film
Shape light with flash, continuous lights and reflectors, meter it properly, and make classic portrait lighting patterns on film.
For photographers who can already expose film manually and want to light portraits. Flash needs a camera that syncs with it, and the guides cover how.
What you need
Steps
1Understand the quality of light
Light quality depends on the apparent size of the source and its distance from the subject. Direction then decides how the face is modelled.
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Read the guide. With any light you have, move it closer and then further away from a subject and watch how the shadow edges change.
Checkpoint: You can now explain how source size, distance and direction change a portrait.
2Shape light with reflectors and diffusers
A reflector can stand in for a second light, and a diffuser can soften a harsh one. Each surface gives fill a different strength and colour.
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Hold a white, silver and black surface beside a model in turn. Compare how each changes the shadow side of the face.
Checkpoint: You can now choose a reflector surface to fill or deepen shadows.
3Choose flash or continuous light
Flash is powerful and freezes movement but you cannot see its effect until you shoot. Continuous light shows exactly what you will get but is weaker.
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Read the comparison and decide which suits your work, budget and space. Tungsten lights get very hot, so handle them with care.
Checkpoint: You have chosen a flash or continuous setup and know the trade-offs of the other.
4Learn flash basics
Flash works with your camera's sync speed and a guide number that links power, distance and aperture. With a focal-plane shutter, exceeding sync speed leaves a dark band across the frame.
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Find your camera's sync speed. Read the guide, then use the guide number tool to see how distance and aperture relate for your flash.
Checkpoint: You can now set a shutter speed that syncs with flash and work out a starting aperture.
5Build the classic lighting patterns
Portrait patterns such as loop and Rembrandt are defined by where the key light falls on the face. They give predictable results to build on.
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Set up loop lighting first, as the most forgiving pattern. Then move the light to make Rembrandt and one other pattern, and compare the three.
Checkpoint: You can now build at least three portrait lighting patterns and tell them apart.
6Meter the studio
In the studio you measure the light falling on the subject rather than reflected from it. Metering each light separately gives you control of the ratio.
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Follow the quick start workflow in the guide: meter the key, then the fill, then the background. Take a test shot and adjust.
Checkpoint: You can now meter key, fill and background separately and set a lighting ratio.
7Take flash further
Once the basics are solid, you can balance flash with ambient light, choose when the flash fires in a slow exposure, and use more than one light.
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Pick one technique from the guide, such as mixing flash with window light. Plan it, shoot a roll and compare your results with your plan.
Checkpoint: You have tried one advanced flash technique and judged the result against your plan.